RETTET EURE DIGIQ´S !!!!!!!

[epoxy]

Quote:

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"When both Nickel-Metal Hydride cells and Nickel Cadmium cells are
stored under load,

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does that mean new batteries have no load whatsoever ?
and does it mean that new batteries can be stored longer
than batteries that have been loaded ?

i think old unused batteries will start to leak pretty soon
after you charge them up
i give about 5-7 year lifetime, used or not.


on the other hand, we do have a forum member who sell's
good and ready to use batterypack's.
i guess we have to drop some €'s to keep our tanks running.

but i think the same goes for everything with batteries.
my NiHm photocamerabattery is growing weaker after 5 years too,
only thing, a new one cost €40,-

remarkable thing is that my first tamiya nicad still works resonably after almost 20 years collecting dust.
(75-66% of it's original runtime)

thanks for the interesting info !!

[Tankdriver]

Hi

As far as i know ...
The Accumulators that we have in our Tanks are NiMh ones.
The best way to keep them alive for a longer Time, is to
keep them in a full load.When they are brand new they get
a full load, too.
The Problem is that this sort of Accumulator loose their
"Power" their Voltage very quick.

The NiCad-Accus are a little bit different.They are more
like ConnorMcLaod in this case.

LiPos are the best for Storage.But they have a little bit
more Voltage and a different "Body". ähhh ... round and
eckig, you know.Sometimes my english is like cheese.
Cheese with holes.

[epoxy]

your cheese is much like my brain
(hmmmmm, cheese )

good thing i keep my Q's under charge.
but i do have to get into the "richtig laden" thing.

any recomendations for a nice charger that i could buy ?
what options do you RC experts think it should have for propper use ?
i'm thinking about a display with usefull info telling
me about the batterie status ?
that can also charge nicd and maybe lipo ?

i would trade for a 2nd hand good one too

maybe the mcConnor batterie was a little over the top
it still has a long runtime, but no real power anymore after a few minutes.
it just surprises me that it still works at all.

[Tankdriver]

Ohh ... sorry didn´t see your Question here.

My Charger is this one here:

Jamara X-Peak 3 Plus

Charging everything and with special peasure the little Digis
with 200 mAh und switchs to Erhaltungsladung by itself.

A good (maybe not the best??) little Charger for little Tanks.

Have a nice Day.

[epoxy]

it looks very nice, but i already fear the pricetag



thanks

[Tankdriver]

Kann nicht mal jemand dem Epoxy einen gescheiten
Tip geben für einen anderen guten Charger?

Ich kenn nur den X-peak 3+

[knacki]

Freunde der kleinen Ballermaschinen
Ich wollte mal einen Panzer für meinen Jungen wiederbeleben.
Akkus hatte ich nach dem Aufruf hier rausgenommen.

Nun befürchte ich, daß mein Delta Peak Lader die Sicherung geschossen hat.

Leider sind die meisten Bilder über die Panzer ebenfalls tot.

Die direkten Ladeanschlüsse sind doch die "dicken" Lötkleckse auf dem rechten Bild zwischen den roten Pfeilen und gegenüberliegend, korrekt?


Wenn ich die Akkus dort direkt anlöte sollte es doch wieder funzen wenn ich das richtig verstanden habe? Ein kurzer Test lies auch mal das rote Licht wieder aufblitzen, will nur kurz sicher gehen, bevor ich das nun dort festlöte um die Sicherung zu überbrücken.


Gruß Knacki & Max, der doch mal Panzer fahren möchte

[epoxy]

Quote:

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Leider sind die meisten Bilder über die Panzer ebenfalls tot.

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so true, details get lost in time.


from the dusty digiQ library: (my messed up harddisk)
and some cut&paiste action from the panzerFAQ & howto
post by robokalle:

Quote:

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Hier die Lösung, ohne das man die Platine auslöten muss.
Man kann das rote Pluskabel direkt an Ladekontakt löten.
Das Kabel sollte aber so verlegt werden, wie auf dem Bild. Ansonsten gibt es Probleme mit dem schliesen des Panzers

---

[knacki]

Hey epoxy,

thanks so much for the pictures.
I am afraid, I had deleted all the digi-q pictures on my harddisk.
It's so good that someone wasn't that stupid than me

Reading about your search:

Quote:

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so many toy's, so little time suche: Schwere Laufrollen (zinn) für digiQ.

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Have you ever thought about doing your own?
Look:
Zinngießen Startset

Thinking about your tank army it could be worth to spent 60 Euros and some time.
With all the wheels you got, you should be able to make a mould for a some tanks in one mould
For the digiQ's it could be easier than explained BeB Faq Reifengiessen here.

Just an idea

Thanks again,

Knacki & Max

[epoxy]

Quote:

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thanks so much for the pictures.

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no problem, my pleasure.

Quote:

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Have you ever thought about doing your own?

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it did cross my mind on several occasions,
i already looked around a bit for that red 2-component heat resistant silicone for a casting mold.
but i wonder if i can cast them precise enough for a good fit on the axle.

why did the maker of the "original" Schwere Laufrollen make them out of two parts anyway ?
ein Schleudergussmaschine ? a sloppy goose ? *lol*
just kidding,
i havn't got a machine like that, it would be helpfull.

maybe it's time for some experiments

[cartman]

Als Ergänzung:
Einen Thread mit Bildern zum Thema Sicherung im Konami Digi-Q gibt es noch:
http://549.rapidforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=4371

_________________

Another visitor - Stay a while ... stay forever!"

[epoxy]

Quote:

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For the digiQ's it could be easier than explained BeB Faq Reifengiessen here

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don't know about that.
it seems hard to me to make the hole for the wheel accurate.
it is a realy small hole.
i worry that removing the rolle from the mould after casting will tear the little bit for the axle off easy.
the black rubber moulds would have no problems with this,
but i never worked with the red silicone before.

either i'll have to come-up with a idea for a "centre-core"
(ein Kern, der wirklich innen RUND ist.)

or i'll have to manually drill a straight hole through every one of them.

being somewhat lazy i'dd like the first option and
cast a ready to use "rolle"

very interesting, this mouldmaking

[epoxy]

1st try



as you can see, not a great result so far.
i was having a hard time with the silicone getting hard very fast.
after mixing the katalyst in there was almost no time to work
with. it didn't seem right.
curious as i was i wrote the manufacturer "glorex-hobbytime",
no replies so far.

if i could just work with the mixed silicone and katalyst for about a minute or two i'll bet that a usefull mould could be made.

[knacki]

Actually, I think you would have been the first having success in the first step.
Try to value the amount of katalyst.
A little bit less could end in more workingtime.

But finally you started!
Next try will be better or even perfect

[epoxy]

going off topic here, moved to zinrolle rebuild.

[epoxy]

update daueruntersuch konami batteriepacks ?



sorry the foto isn't that great.
these are all the konami battery packs i have removed so far.

on the left batteries with no leaking, of course the cell's are too
old and most of them lost their capacity.

in the middle packs that already started leaking,
ranging from a starting leak to the point were the platine
is in danger.

to the left batteries with serious leaking problems,
can't help but thinking that if i would have left these batteries in the
digiQ's, the platine would certainly have some problems.

i just got 5 tanks from japan, strangely enough they were absolutly problem free. i think its because the owner used them on a regular basis ?

so far it all seems like a big gamble to buy one,
but i guess the odd's of buying a good digiQ are dropping
as the battery problem only grows worse.


mind if i ask a question about cleaning the platine ?
is just water good enough ? some say use some soap (base) to nutralize, others like toyota say use household vinagar (acid)
do i realy need a ultrasonicschaltbad ?
could distilled water be usefull or too agressive ?
i,m not sure what is best.
any advice is welcome.

[souljedi]

Hallo,

ich hoffe mal der thread hier passt gut zu meinem Anliegen. Bin erst jetzt auf dieses tolle Forum aufmerksam geworden und habe zwei DigiQ Panzer mit Turmdrehfunktion zu Hause.

Ich habe das Forum so gut es geht durchsucht, aber stecke beim Auseinanderbauen fest.

Kette abnehmen, Rollen entfernen und aufschrauben ist noch OK.
Aber danach habe ich etwas Angst/Respekt vor den Kabeln, die zum Turm gehen.
Ich kann zwar an den Antriebsraedern, das Getriebe ein wenig anheben, aber wie lege ich die Akkus frei?
Muss ich zuerst noch irgendwas im Turm auseinandernehmen?

Vielen Dank im Voraus.

[beaver]

Hi,

Turm lassen wo er ist! Einfach die Oberwanne vorsichtig anheben!
Auf das Turmdrehgetriebe aufpassen, den schwarzen Bügel der
das Turmdrehgetrieb hält vorsichtigausklinken (auf die zahnrädchen aufpassen...)!
Jetzt müßtest du gut an die Batteriepacks rankommen.....

gruß
-beaver
_________________
Meine Karts http://rc-micromodellbau.de/rc-forum/viewtopic.php?t=7711

[Rhauck3s]

Eine gute Alternative zum ein- und auslöten sind die Micro JST Stecker.
So sind die Akkus schnell raus oder untereinander ausgetauscht.



Wirklich sehr Klein



Und passen gut rein



10 Paare ~7-8 Euro
https://www.ebay.de/itm/182385647506

Akkus habe ich von hier
https://akkuplus.de/J-1-4AAA70B-1-4AAA-12-Volt-70mAh-Ni-MH
_________________
Mit Freundlichen Grüssen/With Best Regards

[epoxy]

Danke für die info

Those JST look usefull, female plug to the batteries and male to the board ?
Or the other way around ?