| Vorheriges Thema anzeigen :: Nächstes Thema anzeigen |
| Autor |
Nachricht |
Customizer
Anmeldedatum: 28.11.2012
Beiträge: 15
|
 Verfasst am: 05.12.2012, 01:51 Titel: X-Trek Pro external charger (thread translation please) |
 |
|
Cartman i hope that you can help me with this  In the thread below:
http://www.bit-racing-world.de/modifikationen-mechanik-elektronik/4401-x-trek-pro-mit-deltau-ladegeraet-laden.html
it is mentioned:
| Zitat: | | Hi, I am now finally gotten around to taking pictures of my experimental X-Trek Pro, which I have modified so that I can load it with a deltaV charger. problem was the diode and between the +-charging contact the battery sits, and the electronics that is directly connected to the +-charging contact. I strongly suspect that this is the control line to be X-Trek Pro-lap counter: Because the line goes through a resistor and a further component . in the blob under which sits well to the microcontroller Indirectly, the line is also available with an operational amplifier connected, the well with the potentiometer for is steering into contact, which explains the non-functioning steering to lock the diode. Diode thus serves seitz as short-circuit protection, separates but also the charge contact with the ab + voltage of the battery packs; that it can be used for other purposes. My (initially temporary) solution now looks like this, install a switch and an interconnect to interrupt, so that in a switch state of the circuit is original, the other switch state bridges the diode and the output cable interrupted by the charging contact. That you can indeed in principle always be broken, but I do not know if not the line etwaig also to serve load control, in principle, could the microcontroller monitor the charge and momentum give the line so that the remote control will stop charging. But this is pure speculation. I have a few pictures attached (blurred by the poor lighting at night something - I will next or the following weekend better REPLACE, maybe I solder also the battery pack out again, so you can easily photograph). Btw, X Trek Pro is a dual-Celler, so you need a charger that with 2.4-volt loads and automatically ermittel the number of cells. Do not let the yellow battery pack irritate, himself tinkered Instead of the switch could also take two jumpers and a pen Quiet, I myself also thought yet where I install the switch. Edit: Well, I have the pictures now updated without soldered battery you can now see better where the conductor to be interrupted and where the wires are soldered. I have again to take a picture with a battery pack, so you can see where you are really. |
I want to make sure i understand the translation accurately. Was this member saying that the diode path can be removed and that the X-Trek Pro will charge on an external charger ?
The translation seems 90% clear but there is a small chance of misunderstanding.
Later in the same thread there is this exchange :
| Zitat: | | member Master Drive - on Figure 2 (2nd diagram, first post) is when flipping the switch bypasses the diode, the connection to the resistance . but interrupted Is this necessary, or would work a simple bypass diode (by a jumper or similar) also? |
| Zitat: | | Hello Master Drive, yes, easy enough for the diode bridge the go. Yet it is then no longer use the lap counter the X-Trek Pro. For it eliminates the costly installation of the switch and the interruption of the track. Additionally, you must then watch when you go through conductive materials so that you produce a short circuit due to the elevated charge contacts ... |
What does " easy enough for diode bridge to go " mean? Easy enough to disconnect the diode (i.e. remove the connecting path)? Or easy enough to bridge the diode (which seems difficult)?
In the pictures in that thread removing the path to the diode seems simple - sand or scratch off etched path. if he means bridging a diode ...i'm not clear on that.
I'd appreciate your insight ! Thank you !
Edit:
The reason i ask this question is obviously i would like to have long running times with the X-Trek Pro. I have built an independent battery charger many years ago and want to build a new one for my X-Trek Pro's.
I still have my AC Adapter so this should be relatively easy but the damn DIODE on the X-Trek Pro seems to make this more complicated than it should be. If i can simply disconnect the diode that prevents external charging then i will be happy (even if i lose the ability to use the lap counter. I do not care . Longer run times are worth it). |
|
| Nach oben |
|
 |
cartman
Admin
Anmeldedatum: 19.04.2003
Beiträge: 8467
|
| Verfasst am: 05.12.2012, 22:21 Titel: |
|
|
The X-Trek Pro has two issues which are making it difficult to use a normal charger.
1) It has two cells
2) There is an diode between the abttery and the + contact for the charger.
The first one is easy to solve: Use a charger that can charge two cells at once.
The second one is more tricky. The easy methode is to simply bridge the diode. Just brigde it an you can use a normal charger. But then you cannot use the x-Trek Lapcounter anymore. And you have the risk of shortening your battery if you drive over metal.
If you want to use the lapcounter you have to bridge the diode with a switch. Then you can choose between bridging the diode for charging or using the diode for the lapcounter. Therefore you need to cut a path on the ESC and use a switch instead.
If you don't have the lapcounter, simply bridge the diode... |
|
| Nach oben |
|
|
dude
RC-Fan
Anmeldedatum: 06.03.2003
Beiträge: 916
|
| Verfasst am: 05.12.2012, 22:28 Titel: |
|
|
Hello Customizer:
Your first quote should read:
| Zitat: |
In image 2 (2nd diagram, first post), flipping the switch bypasses the diode, and cuts the connection towards the resistor.
Is this necessary, or is a simple bridge (bypass) over the diode (e.g. by means of a jumper) sufficient?
|
The second quote:
| Zitat: |
Yes, a simple bridge across the diode is sufficient for charging. Note that you can then not use the Lap-counter anymore. But this eliminates the need for a switch, and for cutting the circuit trace.
Also watch out that you do not drive over conductive material, so as to avoid any short circuits due to the raised charging contacts...
|
I understand that the diode provides protection so that the battery cannot be short-circuited.
Bridging the diode means creating a bypass, not opening the circuit.
This could be done by a solder connection across both terminals of the diode, or by replacing it with wire, or by having a wire in parallel.
However, that way the contacts are directly connected to the battery terminals, thereby making it prone for short circuits.
I would suggest a different approach, which is a dedicated charging port.
Connect a wire to the +pole of the battery directly (i.e. behind the diode), and use that to connect to your charger (with a small plug).
That way, the contacts are still protected, and even the lap-counter would still work. |
|
| Nach oben |
|
|
Customizer
Anmeldedatum: 28.11.2012
Beiträge: 15
|
| Verfasst am: 07.12.2012, 09:40 Titel: |
|
|
Thank you both * VERY * much for your assistance I am determined to make my proportional X-Trek Pro's the best they can be. This is a tremendous help. Micro RC (below Mini Z scale) is not dead here !
Dude - Your post is extremely helpful as i did not know what "Bridging the diode " meant. Your explanation has made this clear to me.
Questions:
| Zitat: | | This could be done by a solder connection across both terminals of the diode, or by replacing it with wire, or by having a wire in parallel. |
Replacing the diode with wire i understand .
Having a wire running in parallel with the diode i think i understand. I would solder the wire to the same solder points (terminals) the diode is connected to.
Soldering a connection across both terminals of the diode... wouldnt that be almost the same as replacing the diode with a wire?
| Zitat: | I would suggest a different approach, which is a dedicated charging port.
Connect a wire to the +pole of the battery directly (i.e. behind the diode), and use that to connect to your charger (with a small plug).
That way, the contacts are still protected, and even the lap-counter would still work. |
I would have to tape or solder a wire (or 2nd contact in addition to the chassis contact) directly to the battery. I'd hate to overheat the battery and destroy them .
Adding a plug is an option but it would be large ...
I would prefer to use the lap counter if i can (although it isnt important to me) but it seems Cartmans suggestion of bridging the diode is the most convenient if i cant keep the size of the plug small / reduced.
I will have to think this over.
Thank you both very much and thank you Dude for explaining what bridging the diode meant.
Also...if i have 2 dual cell cars (each car has a 2 batteries in series equaling 2.4volts each) if i build a stand alone charger for them would i need 4.8volts to charge both at once or 6volts ? 4.8volts is sufficient to charge 1 dual cell . |
|
| Nach oben |
|
|
|
