digiQ zinn rolle rebuild

[epoxy]

99.9% reinzinn(Sn) is not a option as i suspected.
even adding upto 5% antmon(Sb) didn't realy help enough.

bleifreie laufrolle's may be impossible to produce
with the "gravity" moulds.

if i could i would try to add some % of zinc (Zn)or
a lot of % bismuth (Bi)
but i have not found it for sale in "pellets" so far.

but i think i really need the low melting point of lead(Pb)
or bismuth to realy have some succes.

the experiment continues.

[microsash]

Reinzinn was never good for casting

Try some Gallium , it melts on 30 C°
_________________
**** www.crc-oberkirch.de *****

[epoxy]

Quote:

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Reinzinn was never good for casting

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i just found out
well, holland is not rich in minerals like germany is,
maybe i should stick to melting cheese.

Gallium ? lol
a very strange and expensive metal.

bismuth is also not very cheap, but it seems perfect for a casting alloy because it's one of those strange materials that expands in size when cooling down (like H2O).
perfect to get high detailed pieces. the mould almost fills itself.

adding some lead and zinn to it should also make it a
pretty hard alloy ?

[Joe Cool]

Very good work!

If you are interested, I still have some of the fantastic robokalle rollen.

Wer noch interesse hat, ich habe noch je einen Satz von den robokalle Rollen.

für /for T-34 - 6 Stk = 6,00 €
für /for Sherman - 8 Stk = 8,00 €
2,50 Porto

Gruß Joe

[steelcut]

Quote:

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Very good work!

If you are interested, I still have some of the fantastic robokalle rollen.

Wer noch interesse hat, ich habe noch je einen Satz von den robokalle Rollen.

für /for T-34 - 6 Stk = 6,00 €
für /for Sherman - 8 Stk = 8,00 €
2,50 Porto

Gruß Joe

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1x t34 please..
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Niemand weiss, was die Zukunft bringt......

[epoxy]

so, after a little more hobbytime a collection of moulds is forming. (héh, funny translations)

some a total failure, some already replaced by better one's,
and some half finished.

of course lego comes in handy again.
i use about 45-50gr of kautschuk for one half of a form
like this.
thats about 100gr per gußform of course.

tried some different metals too, anything suitable i could find
in fact.

the lesson learned here is you can add al kinds of other metals
to make the zinn stronger, and it works too.
only it gets harder to work with, higher melting points will
reduce the lifetime of the mould radically.
high detailed parts or casting a exact sized replica's almost is
impossible to do.

but the metal can get pretty hard,
i don't know if the picture shows it,
but the part on the foreground was smashed repeatedly with a
0.5 kg hammer.
it was the only thing that did any real damage to it.
not indestructable but pretty tough indeed.

results so far ?

the tray still seems a little empty after all the hard work i put in,
i hope things will speedup a bit when i make some more good
Gussteilforme.

[cartman]

That's a lot of resaerch!
You are getting close to the perfect Laufrolle.

Do you think it is possible to make cast drive wheels? I mean the wheels that are directly powerd by the engines.
Chain-slipping was a problem an my tanks and if there is a drive wheel with a rougher surface or even with teeth which match the chains that would be great.

_________________

Another visitor - Stay a while ... stay forever!"

[epoxy]

hey cartman,

just what i was thinking, new drivewheels could be usefull.
maybe a little bigger in diameter,
or like you said with more profile on them.
or maybe even special ones for metalkette.

i was going to try that next, but i was also wondering
were to get suitable gears.
i'm not shure i can remove and re-use the original
gears of a digiQ.
a gear with a little bigger diameter and/or a few more teeth would be fantastic. but i doubt if there is room for it in the tank.

also i'm still thinking what i could use for the drivewheel itself,
unfortunatly i'm still saving up for a nice drehgerät
(if that's the correct word)
so making masters (uhrmodel) myself is a little difficult for me.

any more great ideas are of course always very welcome.

[epoxy]

Quote:

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or even with teeth which match the chains

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o.k. you mentioned that too.
sorry about that.

and a perfect rolle ?
i think i need a Schleudergussmaschine to do that.
so untill then i must say the crown still belongs to robokalle.

[epoxy]

of course it can't all be hard work.
there must be some fun too.

auf vieler versuch, leider kein softporn music mehr.

link to youtube

[dela]

Great movie and nice music. The cars you made by yourself, i presume?

[epoxy]

thanks

Quote:

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The cars you made by yourself, i presume?

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yes, this way i can show my exellent modeling skills.

yep, just a little household aluminium foil, a black textmarker
and about 5 minutes worktime.
just something to chase a rainy afternoon away.
i agree, it could use some more work.
just beta testing if it could work at all.

i got the idea from a modeleisenbahn site,
some guy made dented and rusted trough oildrums this way.

mind you, aluminium could be a conductor that could shortcircuit
between the chargingcontacts on the bottom of the tank.
there is a slim chance that the internal fuse fries.
using some tape over the contacts is advisable.

now i wish i had a micro monstertruck,
and maybe have one of those crazy monstertruck show's ?


i see more destruction in the future.

[epoxy]

can't get enough ?
teil 2 is already out.

CombatdigiQ wrecks car's & van's too

a compilation of the best wrecks.

[epoxy]

Quote:

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Chain-slipping was a problem an my tanks and if there is a drive wheel with a rougher surface or even with teeth which match the chains that would be great.

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chain slipping is the general "problem" even with the konami gummikette.
specially when loading up the tank with 8 schwere rolle's
the friction between the tracks and the drive wheel just isn't enough to get it up a steep hill, not even talking about going downhill.

i found a quick & dirty method that at least works for the
original konami gummikette.



i don't know the name of the rubber tube, but i think you all know the type that shrinks around cables ? what is it ?
schrumpslauch ?
anyway, it seems to work real well. it makes downhill breaking possible where the heavy rolle tanks would just skid along down the hill.
and it can transfer the maximum power to the gummikette before traction is lost.
it eliminates about 98% of the friction problems for gummikette.
i think it could also help the metalkette tanks.

i'dd realy like to make drivewheels for metalkette
in a way so a real chaindrive can be possible.

maybe teeth that grip the chains would be too small and the tracks would skid over them anyway ?
i'm thinking of of filling up the gap between the 2 rolle parts
and then making holes to fit the "führungskamm oder Mittelstege" of the tracks

any ideas are very welcome at this point.

[dela]

Very well, like the real ones. Its a shame that i dont use gummiketten normaly (metal rocks ), but i´ll try it the next time the rubber-fraktion is on the biertisch!

[epoxy]

i have yet to find the courage and time to assemble metaltracks.

a question about that:
did you use the steelwire that came with the friul set,
or did you use another 0.3 mm wire like you wrote in the FaQ ?

i'm still breaking my head over the design for a new drivewheel,
everytime i come up with a usable idea, it's kind of impossible to
cast.

"biertisch", sounds good

[dela]

Well, i always used some federstahldraht. the steelwire of friul is to soft, i think.

i will be waiting for your new design...

[Tankdriver]

Hello PanzaFans

Nice what you did ... realy nice.
I did MetalKetten one Time too.It´s like Meditaion LoL.
Don´t use the wire what comes with the Chains.

Nice WORK !!

[epoxy]

thanks, but it's childsplay comparing to the wonderfull mod's
the people of this forum make.
i'dd like to thank them for the inspiration.

o.k. 0.3mm federstahldraht it is.